Ironwork and sponging

I would like to talk a little bit about technical things today.

I often express that made to measure is the way to go, I have talked about the beauty of sizing and customizing in made to measure garments.

Today, I would like to talk about why you should go for made to measure over off-the-rack, and why you need to come see me.

First of all, off-the-rack garments are mass produced.

Do you really know what that means?

The fabric is literally cut and sewn. The fabric is 2 dimensional, human body is 3 dimensional, sewn some flat pieces of material together wouldn't lay on your body nicely, would it?

They may look nice on the hangers, this is the reason why.

I am not only talking about the inexpensive suits, even suits that are over $1000 with a name brand, if its factory made garments, most likely they are literally cut and sewn.

The made to measure garments are little more taken care of, all depends on the manufacturer, but chances are better than off-the-rack.


So, what am I talking about?


The ironwork, probably the most important step in the process of making a suit.

Not fabrics, not even what’s inside, not talking about material things.

Before the pieces of the fabric get sewn together, using water and heat to make fabric 3 dimensional. When you try to stitch these 3 dimensional pieces of material together,  it requires trained person to do the job because you are not only sewing the straight line anymore.

Did you think only the bespoke tailors go through the ironwork process?

Yes and No

Nowadays, good made to measure manufacturers pay full attention to this process, not so good bespoke tailors don’t even care about this process. I am not too much getting into details, but it is a time consuming work and only fully trained people can perform this kind of work.


Another important step is sponging.

Sponging is, some say the pre-shrinking process, which is true, but more importantly to bring the original fiber back to life.

The natural fiber has been spun, and woven into the fabric. After going through so many processes, this step is extremely important because without this step, the made garment would change its shape.

Every well known mill, after the fabric gets woven, the fabric goes through this sponging process.

If the suit is manufactured in the same area as the woven manufacturer, then not so much to worry about.

However, nowadays, fabrics are from Italy, England, Japan, but the suit is manufactured in different countries.

Remind you, the fabric is woven with the natural fibers, different temperature, different humidity, different season, etc.…


So, forget about these aspects that I mentioned above with the off-the-rack garments. They don't care about where the fabric was woven, cut and sewn and done! No wonder, it changes its shape after a few wears, especially after the dry cleaning!

The suits from KAZUNA, the fabric is once again going through the sponging process before the fabric gets cut, go through the ironwork, the facility is always kept at the same temperature and humidity, going through the aging control box a few times because of going through the processes using iron and press machine, we need to pay special attention to the fabric not getting out of shape.

We see more and more made to measure clothing shops, are you paying for the look or the quality?

Are you talking about how soft the fabric is when you talk about the quality?

Or customizing the details and size specs?

What is a good quality garment to you?

You might want to ask your salesperson how their garments are made.

Because I bet, the majority of them don’t even know, they haven’t been to their manufacturer, they haven’t seen how the garments are made.

Sad, but it's true

So, I am not even sure what you are paying for.

Well, definitely not for the quality, maybe for the look?