Balance / Proportion

Today, I would like to talk a little bit about the balance/proportion of the jacket. Because, I am getting quite a bit of requests asking me if they could change the lapel width of the jacket.

The answer is NO, we don't change the lapel width. I am sorry to disappoint you on this, and I respect your opinion about the beauty of the MTM is to customize the details, as well as the fit.

I completely agree with you, it is the beauty of MTM, customizing your own personal garment. That is why we offer you, wide range of sizes to work with, fabrics, buttons, linings, modification of the fit (slope/square/front shoulders, hunched back, open chest etc.).

However, we believe the importance of the balance and proportion. The design (2 button notch/peak, 3 button, double breasted) is just one aspect of the look, but more importantly the garment should be proportionally balanced.

The length of the jacket is one thing, but the lapel width is another thing. Usually, the sizes mean the chest size. Here in Australia, we usually have 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48 maybe 50. Then some brands may have short, regular and long in those sizes to accommodate the length/height. Then, some brands may have drop 6, drop 7 and drop 8 to accommodate the girth.

Nowadays, the trend is going for the wider lapel width. Well, although the fashion trend is always making circles anyway, that this is nothing new.

However, what people don't generally think is the balance. The bigger the lapel width, the more dominant/aggressive look you have. You know what the gorge line is? The line where the upper collar and the lower collar meets. Where the gorge line sits and the angle of the line would make the look different too. Italian, especially the Napolitan jacket tends to sit quite high and the angle is up, gives modern look.

First, you need to know your body type. You may be tall, short, average height, skinny, overweight, average built, long arms, short arms...

Generally speaking, you shouldn't have a wider lapel width if you have a small frame, and you shouldn't have a narrower lapel width if you have a big frame.

Not to mention, the gorge line angle, where the gorge line sits, button stance, the length of the jacket, the front cut. 

In made to measure, there are certain things we can do and we cannot. The beauty of the MTM is the customization of the details as well as the modification of the based pattern to fit your personal measurements.

However, you can't change the design dramatically without affecting the original size balance, such as the gorge line angle, where the gorge line sits, button stance (slightly changes according to your jacket length), armholes, chest size.

Understanding these factors, each base size has its proportioned lapel width. that is the reason why, our try-on garments (20 total base sizes) all have different lapel widths, for 2 button notch/2 button peak/3 button notch/double breasted even in same size.

Some MTM retailers might be able to accommodate this matter, but what they don't tell you about is the balance, and also main fact that "you don't need to become someone else" just because the fashion trend is talking about wide or narrow lapel width, shorter jacket length, tapered pants, doesn't mean you need to follow it. Rather, you should consider your business environment, your body type, what you like and dislike, classic look vs trendy look.

There are so many options available, but at the same time, you need to consider what you are getting suits for. The majority of people are getting suits for work, business environment, right? Then fortunately or unfortunately, the option is pretty limited, because you should stick with pretty classic and conservative look. Especially, the wider lapel would give the aggressive look that if you have a small frame, don't even wear a tie, prefer soft construction, then the lapel alone might stand out too much.

However, at the end of the day, you get what you want to get. If that's what you prefer, then it's all good. But, we care for details so much that that's something we don't compromise. Another word, if someone gives you whatever the lapel width you want without asking you or explaining these factors, they don't really care how you look.

People, especially the retailers are pushing so much about visual details more than technical details these days. I am sorry as a retailer about this that you as a consumer haven't really seen the quality garments. Why I can say this? Because I haven't seen as a professional. 

I hear, full canvas, wide lapel width, working buttonholes, horn buttons, hand stitched, soft construction, high waistband, side adjusters, mother of pearl buttons on the shirt, gusset, split yoke, chicken feet button stitch, just to name a few...

And the worst is, "Hand tailored". To me, "so?, and?"

What is the definition of "Hand Tailored"?! Does it mean all stitched by hand? Do they still use a sewing machine? If they use a sewing machine, is it an industrial automatic sewing machine or old style pedal type sewing machine?

Anyways, you shouldn't be focusing on the visual details, you should be focusing on the technical details and fit.

Any question, please come visit me!