Don't Do's

Today, I would like to talk about “don't do’s”.

I say this over and over. However, a lot of things should be mentioned and taken care of by the retailers but often times they are not.

I often see men wearing 2 button and 3 button suit fasten bottom button. This is something that you just don't do, the sales people should let the person know if you see. You may say, “ well, but it is not wrong to do, right?”. Well, it is not meant to be made fasten, so you figure whether you should or you shouldn't.

Long time ago back in early 1900’s,  King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit undone. Apparently, he grew so big that he was unable to fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat and jacket. To not offend the king, those associated with him started doing the same. The custom then gradually spread the world round. Today’s suits are constructed in a manner where to ensure proper fit and drape of the jacket, one must generally leave the bottom button open. Whether this was started because of King Edward, or simply because of evolving fashion, the jacket today is designed not to fasten the bottom button, it remains the rule today.

I often see men wearing a suit jacket with a brand name tag on their sleeve, stitching on their shoulder seam, cross stitch on their vents, stitch on their pockets.

I mean, come on, it is part of our job, retailers to take off those things. These are all based stitching. When the garment needs to be altered, that is when these things should be removed, all the pockets should be opened. If the client is taking the garment with him, you should quickly remove all these things and open pockets then give it to him. If you are the client and your sales person gives you the garment as is, you should ask them to remove all of those. It is actually embarrassing to see men wearing suits like this without being told.

Alteration is another thing. You have to always remember the garment you are about to work on has been completely made. Alteration is to make slight adjustments within the area where it doesn't affect the original design.

If you are to work more than that, that is not alteration anymore, it is re-construction or re-modeling. What sales people don't tell you is that you can't make full cut suits to slim fit, make slim cut suits to comfortable relaxed fit. Sales people are not wearing your garment.

My personal definition of alteration on made garment is to make slight adjustments on pants waist by 1cm to maybe 2cm take-in or let-out, lengthen and shorten pants, take-in or let-out on jacket side seams by 1cm to maybe 2cm. That's about it. Everything else would ruin the look of your suit.

If they try to narrow the sleeves, shorten or lengthen sleeves with working button holes, take-in or let-out more than 2cm anywhere, lengthen pants on cotton fabric especially light color pants, shorten the jacket, DON’T DO IT!

Meantime, they charge you so much money to do these alterations to ruin your suit. You may say, “I am not an average figured man, I need to get an alteration done”.

Off the rack garments are for average figured men. However, every brand has its own design and size specs. Some are fuller than the others, slimmer than the others. The first thing you have to do is to find the right cut for you that requires minimum alteration.

If you already know that you need re-construction or re-modeling, it is better off getting a suit made.

Ordering is much more fun and easy process than hunting what you like that fit you the way you like.

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